More than a mere oasis in the drinking desert of Orange County, 320 Main has become a destination in its own right, worth seeking out and making the trek from Los Angeles. The bar possesses a warmth and charm that matches the demeanor of its owner, Jason Schiffer (winner of last year’s Lush Angeles Bartender of the Year). There’s a light-heartedness of spirit that belies the rigor required to execute the drinks on the menu. It’s because of that apparent ease that fools copy cat bars throughout the rest of the OC into attempting to replicate 320 Main’s success. However, no other Orange County bar (yet) has mastered 320 Main’s attention to detail or forward thinking.
[Source: Matt Talbert]
Schiffer will never admit it, but he beams with the quiet pride of someone who knows that he’s blazing the trail. Orange County is staunchly anti-LA, eager instead to define style and class on its own terms. But it was out of towners that repeatedly made the trip to Seal Beach to visit 320 Main that spread the word of a restaurant that combined classic American faire that could be comfortable and still exciting.
Through many stops and starts, the kitchen side of 320 Main finally hit its stride this year, embracing its place as a gastropub worthy of the hippest spots in Los Feliz or Silver Lake. Cheeky additions like fried pickles and messy forgotten favorites like beef stroganoff form the soul of the menu, emblazoned with “Add A Fried Egg To Anything” like a double dog dare, encouraging diners to surrender and re-think what it means to have American food.
The drinks at 320 Main are the main attraction, and are quite daring in introducing ingredients like Cynar or egg whites to a more conservative OC audience. The constraints of their clientele showcase the versatility and creativity of the whole 320 Main bar staff, and so while vodka may still rule the day (as it does in many places across America), the drink menu here acts as an invitation into the realm of craft cocktails.
The flip side to 320 Main’s success, however, is that many Orange County bars are adding poorly made renditions of these cocktails onto their menus, which becomes counterproductive to 320 Main’s hard work. “Oh I’ve had a negroni before at [bar that makes it poorly]. I don’t like that drink.” (It should be noted that the bar makes an excellent negroni variant, using Gran Classico in place of Campari.) OC periodicals are trigger happy to crown “The Next 320 Main” and have repeatedly heaped undue accolades onto other bars as a way of convincing themselves that they didn’t need out-of-towners to unearth the gem in their midst.
If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then 320 Main must possess quite a bit of humility to absorb such praise. Some forms of reverence are a bit more artistic, such as those from artist Matt Talbert and his collection of oil paintings inspired by the bar. The bar has also become a mecca of sorts for Orange County bartenders who truly want to learn about craft cocktails and go beyond imitation. After all, Orange County already possesses the largest liquor store in Southern California, so it’s only natural that the OC forms its own new tradition of drinking, all on its own terms. 320 Main has also helped revitalize Seal Beach’s Main Street, which has gone from a haphazard collection of Irish pubs to a vibrant restaurant scene.
320 Main didn’t enjoy a meteoric rise, and so Schiffer and his staff understand that they have to continue to innovate and play the role of trail blazer in order to uphold such laurels. While their Moscow Mule continues to be their best seller, more aromatic drinks are finding their way onto the menu, even if a bit of slight of hand is employed (their Antique Lemon Drop, for instance, is made with Bols Genever). Bottled carbonated cocktails, which Portland bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler blogged about, have made their appearance.
Ultimately, the heart of 320 Main’s bar is Schiffer and his innate understanding of drinking not just as an escapism but as entertainment. “Functional flair” — the twist of a wrist, or the vigor of a shake — help to create a drinking atmosphere that emphasizes the costumer experience and to encourage engagement not only with Jason but the rest of his talented staff. It’s almost impossible to leave without a smile on your face or a spring in your step after visiting 320 Main. Go ahead and try if you like: I double dog dare you.
